Azerbaijan

Cost of living

What a month costs

Baku is moderately priced for the region. Rent and eating out stay cheap, but imported goods, cars and quality schooling push a family budget higher.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Baku

1. IcherisheherThe walled Old City, a UNESCO site of narrow lanes, hammams and caravanserais.
2. Maiden TowerThe mysterious stone cylinder on the seafront edge of the Old City with rooftop views.
3. Palace of the ShirvanshahsThe elegant 15th century royal complex at the top of the Old City.
4. Flame TowersThree curved glass skyscrapers that light up the skyline with fire animations at night.
5. Heydar Aliyev CenterZaha Hadid's flowing white landmark, one of the most photographed buildings in the Caucasus.
6. Baku BoulevardA long seaside promenade along the Caspian with parks, cafes and a Ferris wheel.
7. Fountains SquareThe lively pedestrian heart of the new city, ringed by shops and terraces.
8. Nizami StreetThe main shopping street, a grand pedestrian run of stone facades and brands.
9. Azerbaijan Carpet MuseumA building shaped like a rolled rug, telling the story of the country's weaving.
10. Highland ParkA hilltop viewpoint above the bay, next to the solemn Martyrs' Lane.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Gobustan National ParkAbout an hour south for prehistoric rock carvings and bubbling grey mud volcanoes.
2. Absheron PeninsulaShort drive out to Yanar Dag, the hillside that burns nonstop, and the Ateshgah fire temple.
3. Quba and the mountain villagesTwo and a half hours north for cool air, orchards and the old Red Village at Qirmizi Qesebe.
4. ShekiA Silk Road town with the tiled Khan's Palace and famous halva, worth a full weekend.
5. GabalaGreen foothills of the Greater Caucasus with a cable car, hiking and a summer resort feel.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Passage 1901A stylish central spot in a restored arcade, good for coffee and long lunches.
2. Coffee MoffieA popular local coffee chain with reliable espresso across the city.
3. PaulThe French bakery chain with fresh pastries and a proper flat white near Fountains Square.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. SumakhOne of the best known kitchens for refined Azerbaijani cooking and plov.
2. FiruzeTraditional dishes served in warm, old world surroundings near the centre.
3. ChinarA fashionable pan-Asian restaurant and lounge popular with the city set.
4. Shirvanshah Museum RestaurantAzerbaijani classics in rooms crammed with folk art and antiques.
5. DolmaHomely regional cooking, named for the stuffed vine leaves it does well.
6. NakhchivanHearty food from the Nakhchivan region in a big, festive dining hall.
7. Mangal Steak HouseA dependable grill for kebabs and charcoal cooked meats.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Passage 1901Relaxed morning menu with eggs, pastries and strong coffee in the arcade.
2. PaulCroissants, omelettes and good coffee for an easy Western style start.
3. Coffee MoffieA quick local stop for coffee and a light bite before the day.