El Salvador

Cost of living

What a month costs

The dollar economy makes budgeting simple with no exchange risk. Local food like pupusas and market produce is cheap, but imported goods, cars and international-school fees push family budgets up fast.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in San Salvador

1. Iglesia El RosarioA stark concrete arch downtown that glows inside with a wall of coloured stained glass. One of Latin America's great modernist churches.
2. Catedral MetropolitanaThe city cathedral on Plaza Barrios, holding the crypt and tomb of Saint Oscar Romero.
3. Monumento al Divino Salvador del MundoThe statue of Christ atop a globe that gives the country its name, on Plaza Las Americas.
4. Teatro NacionalA restored 1917 theatre in the historic centre, all velvet and gilt inside.
5. Palacio NacionalThe former seat of government on Plaza Gerardo Barrios, now a handsome museum piece anchoring the revived old town.
6. El Boqueron National ParkThe forested crater of San Salvador volcano, a short drive up from the city for cool air and big views.
7. Museo de Arte de El Salvador (MARTE)The main art museum in the San Benito district, strong on Salvadoran painting.
8. Museo Nacional de Antropologia (MUNA)The national anthropology museum, a solid primer on the country's Maya and Pipil past.
9. Puerta del DiabloTwin rock towers above Los Planes de Renderos with a sweeping lookout over the valley, just outside town.
10. Jardin Botanico La LagunaA quiet botanical garden in an old crater in Antiguo Cuscatlan, good for a slow family morning.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. El Tunco and El ZonteBlack-sand surf beaches on the La Libertad coast, under an hour away. El Zonte is the original Bitcoin Beach.
2. Lake CoatepequeA deep blue volcanic crater lake about an hour west, ringed by lakeside restaurants and swimming decks.
3. Ruta de las FloresA string of highland coffee towns like Juayua, Apaneca and Ataco, known for food festivals, murals and cool mountain air.
4. Santa Ana and Cerro VerdeThe country's second city plus the hike up Santa Ana volcano to its turquoise crater lagoon.
5. SuchitotoA cobbled colonial town above Lake Suchitlan, big on art, boat trips and slow weekends.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Viva EspressoThe country's best-known specialty coffee house, run by champion baristas and pouring local single-origin beans.
2. The Coffee CupA reliable local cafe chain with branches around Zona Rosa and the malls, good for laptops and long catch-ups.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. Alo NuestroA long-standing fine-dining room on Calle La Reforma in Escalon, the go-to for a special dinner.
2. KamakuraThe city's established Japanese restaurant, a favourite for sushi and a calmer night out.
3. Hacienda RealBig, popular Salvadoran grill with several branches, heavy on steaks, grilled meats and family tables.
4. Los RanchosA well-known steakhouse in the Zona Rosa dining strip, strong on cuts and chimichurri.
5. Faisca do BrasilBrazilian churrascaria in Zona Rosa where waiters carve skewered meats at the table.
6. Restaurante Don PedroA homegrown 24-hour institution serving Salvadoran comfort food at any hour.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Restaurante Don PedroOpen around the clock, a dependable spot for eggs, casamiento and strong coffee to start the day.
2. The Coffee CupPastries, egg plates and proper coffee before the malls open.
3. Viva EspressoThe place for a serious flat white with a light breakfast bite.