Guyana

Cost of living

What a month costs

Oil money has pushed Georgetown rents and dining sharply higher since 2020. Expat-standard apartments and imported goods cost far more than local wages suggest, and prices keep climbing.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Georgetown

1. St George's CathedralOne of the tallest wooden buildings in the world, a soaring white Gothic Anglican landmark in the city centre.
2. Stabroek MarketThe chaotic covered market under its iconic four-faced clock tower, the beating heart of downtown.
3. Georgetown SeawallThe long Atlantic promenade where the whole city walks, jogs and lymes at sunset, especially on Sundays.
4. Guyana National MuseumA small but characterful museum tracing the country's natural history and colonial past near the Botanical Gardens.
5. Promenade GardensA tidy Victorian public garden with a bandstand and a statue of Gandhi, good for a shady midday break.
6. Botanical Gardens and National ParkSprawling green space with lily ponds, manatees in the canals and the resident zoo animals.
7. Bourda MarketA lively produce market packed with tropical fruit, ground provisions and Guyanese street snacks.
8. Parliament BuildingThe domed colonial Public Buildings on Brickdam, one of the finest pieces of nineteenth-century architecture in the city.
9. Walter Roth Museum of AnthropologyA modest museum devoted to Guyana's Indigenous Amerindian peoples and their crafts.
10. Georgetown City HallA striking Gothic Revival wooden building from 1889, long under restoration but a photogenic downtown icon.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Kaieteur FallsThe world's largest single-drop waterfall by volume, reached on a short light-aircraft hop from Ogle airport for a jaw-dropping day trip.
2. Bartica and the EssequiboA river town gateway to the interior, an hour and a half up the mighty Essequibo by speedboat or ferry.
3. Shell BeachA remote Atlantic coast strip where four species of sea turtle nest, best in spring for the nesting season.
4. Santa MissionA peaceful Arawak village up the Kamuni Creek, an easy overnight into the rainforest and creek life.
5. Iwokrama RainforestA protected wilderness with a famous canopy walkway, deeper into the interior for wildlife and jungle lodges.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Oasis CafeThe long-running expat and business favourite on Carmichael Street for coffee, sandwiches and free wifi.
2. Cara LodgeA heritage colonial house on Quamina Street whose verandah is a genteel spot for coffee and afternoon tea.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. German's RestaurantThe go-to for classic Guyanese Creole cooking like pepperpot, metemgee and cook-up rice on New Market Street.
2. Backyard CafeChef Delven Adams runs a famous farm-to-table tasting experience by reservation, a bucket-list Georgetown meal.
3. AagmanA polished North Indian restaurant that draws a strong crowd for curries and tandoor.
4. KamboatA long-established Chinese restaurant on Sheriff Street, a Georgetown staple for big group dinners.
5. Shanta'sThe legendary roti and curry shop on Camp Street, a no-frills institution locals swear by.
6. Palm CourtA popular Main Street bar and grill for cocktails, seafood and a lively evening scene.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Oasis CafeReliable morning coffee, pastries and breakfast plates in a cool air-conditioned room.
2. Shanta'sCome early for hot roti, bake and saltfish and other proper Guyanese breakfasts.
3. BakewellThe ubiquitous local bakery chain for fresh bread, tennis rolls, pastries and a quick cheap start to the day.
4. Cara LodgeA calm colonial setting for a sit-down breakfast before the day heats up.