Iran

Cost of living

What a month costs

A weak rial makes Tehran extremely cheap in dollar terms. But sanctions mean foreign cards do not work, so you live on cash, and high local inflation steadily eats any rial you hold.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Tehran

1. Golestan PalaceUNESCO-listed Qajar palace complex with mirrored halls and tiled courtyards.
2. National Museum of IranThe country's main archaeology museum, from prehistory to the Islamic era.
3. Grand BazaarA vast covered maze of carpets, spices, gold, and tea, the commercial heart of the city.
4. Milad TowerOne of the tallest towers in the world, with city and mountain views from the top.
5. Tabiat BridgeA sweeping pedestrian bridge linking two parks, a favourite evening stroll.
6. Sa'dabad ComplexFormer royal summer palaces set in wooded gardens up in Shemiran.
7. Niavaran Palace ComplexThe last Shah's residence, now a museum in leafy northern Tehran.
8. National Jewelry MuseumThe Treasury of National Jewels, a dazzling vault of crown jewels below the Central Bank.
9. Azadi TowerThe white marble landmark and gateway monument on the western side of the city.
10. Tehran Museum of Contemporary ArtHolds a famous modern collection with Western and Iranian masters.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Darband and TochalHike straight up the Alborz from the northern edge of the city, tea houses all the way.
2. DizinOne of the higher ski resorts in the Middle East, about three hours north in the mountains.
3. KashanDesert town of grand old merchant houses and rosewater, a few hours south.
4. Caspian coast via the Chalus roadThe famous mountain drive drops from dry peaks into green forest and the sea.
5. Qazvin and the Alamut valleyOld capital plus the ruined castles of the Assassins in a dramatic valley.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Cafe NaderiA grand old literary cafe dating to the 1920s, all worn charm and strong coffee.
2. Lamiz CoffeeA well-run specialty chain that pushed third-wave coffee across the city.
3. Sam CafeA busy modern spot in the Sam Center, popular for coffee and long chats.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. Moslem RestaurantLegendary tahchin near the Grand Bazaar, expect a queue at lunch.
2. NayebA classic Tehran name for grilled kebab done properly.
3. Alborz RestaurantLong-running traditional dining room on Vali-e-Asr, full menu of Persian staples.
4. Divan RestaurantUpscale modern Iranian cooking in the Sam Center.
5. GilanehNorthern Gilani dishes with the sour, herby flavours of the Caspian region.
6. ShandizBig portions of Mashhad-style kebab and rice.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Cafe NaderiOld-school omelette, bread, and tea in a room full of history.
2. Lamiz CoffeeReliable modern brunch and proper coffee to start the day.
3. Sam CafeEasy morning eggs and pastries before the city gets busy.