Samoa

Cost of living

What a month costs

Local produce, fish and market food are cheap, but almost everything imported carries a steep island markup. Good long-term rentals are scarce, so expat-standard housing costs more than the headline figure.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Apia

1. Mulivai CathedralThe white Immaculate Conception Cathedral on the Apia waterfront, the city's most photographed landmark.
2. Robert Louis Stevenson MuseumThe author's restored Villa Vailima home on the edge of town, full of his letters and furniture.
3. Mount VaeaA short jungle hike above Vailima to Stevenson's tomb and a wide view over Apia and the harbour.
4. Palolo Deep Marine ReserveA snorkelling spot right in Apia harbour where a coral shelf drops into a deep blue hole.
5. Fugalei MarketThe main fresh-produce market, a loud, colourful place to buy taro, fish and tropical fruit.
6. Maketi FouThe bustling flea and crafts market for tapa cloth, carvings and cheap local meals.
7. Mulinu'u PeninsulaThe historic government and cultural spit with the Independence Memorial and old parliament grounds.
8. Papase'ea Sliding RocksNatural stone waterslides in the hills just outside town, a favourite with local families.
9. Samoa Cultural VillageLive demonstrations of tattooing, weaving and umu cooking beside the tourism office on Beach Road.
10. Baha'i House of WorshipOne of only a handful of Baha'i temples in the world, a serene dome at Tiapapata above the city.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. To Sua Ocean TrenchA jaw-dropping sunken swimming hole at Lotofaga on the south coast, reached by a steep wooden ladder.
2. Lalomanu BeachPowder-white sand and turquoise water on the southeast tip of Upolu, an easy overnight in a beach fale.
3. Piula Cave PoolA crystal freshwater cave pool beside the sea on the north coast, set below an old Methodist mission.
4. Savai'i islandThe big, quiet island across the strait, home to lava fields, the Alofaaga blowholes and giant banyan trees.
5. Manono IslandA tiny car-free island between Upolu and Savai'i where you can walk the whole shoreline in an afternoon.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Bistro TatauMarina-side spot known for good espresso, brunch plates and harbour views.
2. Nourish CafeHealthy bowls, smoothies and fresh juices, a favourite light-lunch stop in town.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. Paddles RestaurantLong-running waterfront fine dining at Vaiala with Mediterranean plates and fresh local fish.
2. Sails Restaurant and BarCasual Beach Road classic on the harbour, popular for sunset drinks and seafood.
3. Giordano's PizzeriaWell-loved wood-fired pizza place, an easy family dinner in the centre of Apia.
4. Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey's HotelThe historic Aggie Grey's, famous for its weekly fiafia night buffet and cultural show.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Bistro TatauReliable morning coffee, eggs and pastries by the marina.
2. Nourish CafeSmoothie bowls, granola and fresh fruit for a lighter start.
3. Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey's HotelGenerous buffet breakfast in a garden setting for a weekend treat.