Georgia

Cost of living

What a month costs

Central rents jumped after 2022 but daily life stays cheap by European standards.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Tbilisi

1. Narikala FortressAncient hilltop citadel with the best sweep over the old town and river.
2. Abanotubani sulphur bathsDomed brick bathhouses in the historic district where you soak in hot mineral water.
3. Old TbilisiWooden balconies, leaning lanes and courtyards below the fortress.
4. Bridge of PeaceGlass-and-steel footbridge lit up over the Kura, love it or loathe it.
5. Holy Trinity Cathedral (Sameba)Vast golden-domed church crowning the skyline across the river.
6. Rustaveli AvenueThe grand main boulevard lined with theatres, museums and the opera.
7. Mtatsminda ParkFerris wheel and city views at the top of the funicular railway.
8. Georgian National MuseumHome to the striking gold hoards and a sobering Soviet occupation hall.
9. FabrikaA Soviet sewing factory reborn as a courtyard of cafes, studios and a hostel.
10. Dry Bridge MarketOpen-air flea market for Soviet trinkets, old cameras and Georgian art.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Kazbegi (Stepantsminda)Gergeti Trinity church under a giant snow peak, three hours north on the Military Highway.
2. Kakheti wine countrySighnaghi and Telavi for cellar tours and endless qvevri tastings, easy day or overnight.
3. MtskhetaGeorgia's ancient spiritual capital and its UNESCO churches, twenty minutes from town.
4. BorjomiLeafy spa town famous for its mineral water, with a national park at the doorstep.
5. GudauriThe country's top ski resort in winter and a paragliding hub in summer, two hours away.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Erti KavaSmall specialty roaster that helped kick off the city's third-wave coffee scene.
2. Coffee LABReliable local chain for a proper flat white and a laptop-friendly corner.
3. Prospero's Books and Caliban's CoffeeCourtyard cafe tucked behind an English-language bookshop on Rustaveli.
4. LinvilleLong-running Vake favourite for coffee, cake and people-watching.
5. Stamba CafeCoffee and pastries inside the dramatic old printing-house hotel.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. BarbarestanRefined Georgian cooking built from a 19th-century recipe book, a real occasion.
2. Shavi LomiHomey courtyard spot doing creative takes on classic Georgian dishes.
3. AzarpheshaNatural wine and seasonal Georgian plates from a respected local name.
4. Cafe LitteraModern Georgian tasting menus in the leafy Writers' House garden.
5. Salobie BiaRegional home-style cooking and famous beans in a bright, casual room.
6. MachakhelaDependable chain for cheese-stuffed khachapuri and hearty staples.
7. Pheasant's TearsKakheti winemaker's Tbilisi table pairing amber wine with farm dishes.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Stamba CafeAll-day brunch under industrial ceilings in the Stamba hotel.
2. Cafe Stamba BakeryFresh pastries and eggs to start the day in the design-hotel courtyard.
3. EntreeFrench-style bakery chain with croissants and coffee across the city.
4. Fabrika courtyardGrab a khachapuri or eggs from the stalls in the buzzing yard.
5. Culinarium KhinkaliOrder the boat-shaped adjaruli khachapuri with a runny egg on top.
6. Cafe GabriadzeCharming cafe by the puppet theatre for a slow morning coffee and eggs.
7. Keto and KoteHilltop garden restaurant lovely for a late, lazy weekend brunch.
8. PurpurBohemian old-town spot good for eggs, coffee and a relaxed start.
9. Moulin ElectriqueCasual Sololaki cafe with a solid all-day breakfast plate.