Jordan

Cost of living

What a month costs

Amman is pricier than most of the region. West Amman districts like Abdoun and Sweifieh command high rents, imported goods carry a premium, and water is metered and scarce. Local food and taxis stay cheap.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Amman

1. Amman CitadelHilltop ruins with the Temple of Hercules and the Umayyad Palace, and the best view over the city.
2. Roman TheatreA steep 6,000-seat theatre carved into the downtown hillside, still used for events.
3. Rainbow StreetThe walkable spine of Jabal Amman, lined with cafes, shops and the Friday market.
4. King Abdullah I MosqueThe blue-domed landmark mosque, open to respectful visitors outside prayer times.
5. The Jordan MuseumThe country's flagship museum, home to the Ain Ghazal statues and Dead Sea Scroll fragments.
6. Darat al FununA hillside arts complex with galleries, gardens and old villas above downtown.
7. Al-BaladThe old downtown, with its gold souk, spice stalls and street food along King Faisal Street.
8. The Duke's DiwanA restored 1920s townhouse on King Faisal Street, one of the oldest buildings downtown.
9. Abdali BoulevardThe modern open-air district of towers, restaurants and shopping north of the centre.
10. Royal Automobile MuseumThe late King Hussein's car and motorcycle collection in King Hussein Park.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Dead SeaAbout an hour down from the hills. Float in the mineral water and stay at a resort spa.
2. JerashForty-five minutes north. One of the best preserved Roman provincial cities anywhere.
3. PetraRoughly three hours south. The rose-red rock city is a long day or an easy overnight.
4. Wadi RumFour hours south. Sleep in a desert camp under huge sandstone cliffs and clear skies.
5. AqabaJordan's Red Sea port. Warm water, coral reefs and diving, plus a duty-free zone.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Rumi CafeA cosy Weibdeh favourite for good coffee and a young creative crowd.
2. Turtle Green Tea BarA relaxed tea and coffee spot on Rainbow Street with a long loose-leaf list.
3. Books@CafeA bookshop cafe on Rainbow Street with a terrace and city views.
4. Shams El BaladA farm-to-table cafe in Jabal Amman known for fresh local breakfasts.
5. Rakwet ArabA traditional downtown coffeehouse for Arabic coffee and shisha.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. Hashem RestaurantThe legendary downtown falafel and hummus institution, cheap and always busy.
2. SufraClassic Jordanian and Levantine cooking in a restored villa on Rainbow Street.
3. FakhreldinUpmarket Lebanese dining in an old Jabal Amman mansion with a garden.
4. Beit SittiA home-style cooking house in Weibdeh where you can also learn the dishes.
5. ReemThe famous 2nd Circle shawarma stand, a late-night Amman ritual.
6. ZuwwadehHearty Jordanian mains including mansaf and grills.
7. Habibah SweetsThe downtown counter for warm knafeh, an Amman classic.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Hashem RestaurantFul, falafel and hummus from early morning in the downtown alley.
2. Shams El BaladLocal eggs, labneh and seasonal plates in Jabal Amman.
3. Abu JbaraA popular local chain for hot ful and hummus bowls.
4. Books@CafeA relaxed Rainbow Street brunch with a view over the hills.
5. Wild Jordan CenterHealthy breakfasts and a big terrace looking across to the Citadel.
6. Rumi CafeCoffee and light morning plates in Weibdeh.