Lebanon

Cost of living

What a month costs

The 2019 crisis dollarised Beirut, so prices in USD are higher than the poverty on the streets suggests. Budget for fresh-dollar rent plus a private generator bill on top of the failing state grid, and remember imported goods are pricey.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Beirut

1. Pigeon Rocks (Raouché)The two natural sea arches off the western Corniche, best at sunset.
2. Corniche BeirutThe long seafront promenade where the whole city walks, jogs and fishes in the evening.
3. National Museum of BeirutThe country's main archaeology museum, strong on Phoenician and Roman finds.
4. Mohammad Al-Amin MosqueThe blue-domed downtown landmark that anchors Martyrs' Square.
5. Saint George Maronite CathedralThe historic cathedral standing shoulder to shoulder with the grand mosque, a snapshot of Lebanon's mix.
6. Sursock MuseumA modern art museum in a restored Achrafieh mansion, reopened in 2023 after the port blast damage.
7. Roman BathsExcavated Roman ruins tucked into the downtown grid near the government quarter.
8. Beirut SouksThe rebuilt downtown shopping district on the footprint of the old covered markets.
9. American University of Beirut campusA green, tree-shaded hillside campus above the sea, open for a quiet stroll.
10. Mar Mikhael and GemmayzeStepped streets of bars, galleries and street art that are the heart of Beirut nightlife.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Byblos (Jbeil)One of the oldest continuously inhabited towns on earth, with a crusader castle and a pretty fishing harbour about an hour north.
2. Jeita GrottoA vast, floodlit system of limestone caves you tour by foot and by boat, roughly 20km from the city.
3. Harissa and JouniehRide the téléphérique cable car up to the Our Lady of Lebanon shrine for sweeping views over Jounieh Bay.
4. Cedars and Kadisha ValleyThe ancient cedar forest above Bcharré plus the holy Kadisha gorge and the Gibran museum, best in autumn snow-free weather.
5. BatrounA laid-back coastal town north of the city known for its Phoenician sea wall, beach clubs and fresh lemonade.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Cafe YounesA Hamra institution roasting coffee since 1935, still the classic meeting spot.
2. Kalei Coffee Co.A specialty roaster with a leafy courtyard in Mar Mikhael, popular with the laptop crowd.
3. T-MarboutaA cultural cafe in the Hamra Piccadilly building, good for coffee, talks and people-watching.
4. UrbanistaAn all-day Gemmayze cafe that is a reliable brunch and coffee stop.
5. AhwakA long-running Hamra cafe where students linger over coffee and shisha.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. Em SherifA lavish set-menu temple to Lebanese home cooking, the city's benchmark for a special dinner.
2. TawletThe Souk el Tayeb farm-to-table kitchen in Mar Mikhael, with a rotating guest cook each day.
3. Le ChefA beloved no-frills Gemmayze diner serving daily Lebanese home dishes at honest prices.
4. MayrigRefined Armenian-Lebanese cooking in a restored Gemmayze house.
5. LizaElegant modern Lebanese in a restored Achrafieh palace.
6. BarbarThe famous Hamra street-food corner for shawarma, manoushe and juices at all hours.
7. Falafel SahyounA legendary hole-in-the-wall near downtown serving some of the best falafel in the city.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Zaatar w ZeitThe homegrown chain that made the manoushe a national breakfast, open early across the city.
2. BarbarRound-the-clock manoushe and labneh wraps in Hamra when you want breakfast at any hour.
3. Al FalamankiA garden restaurant in Sodeco that lays out a full traditional Lebanese breakfast spread.
4. Cafe YounesFreshly roasted coffee with simple morning plates in Hamra.
5. Kalei Coffee Co.Specialty coffee and egg dishes in the Mar Mikhael courtyard.
6. UrbanistaA dependable Gemmayze brunch with eggs, pancakes and good coffee.
7. TawletWeekend Lebanese breakfast and brunch built around village produce in Mar Mikhael.