Luxembourg

Cost of living

What a month costs

One of the most expensive cities in Europe. Rent is the big line item. Public transport is free nationwide, which claws a little back.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Luxembourg City

1. Bock CasematesUNESCO-listed tunnels carved into the cliff where the old fortress once defended the city.
2. Chemin de la CornicheCliff-top promenade often called the most beautiful balcony in Europe, looking over the Grund.
3. Grand Ducal PalaceThe Grand Duke's town residence, with guards out front and summer tours inside.
4. Notre-Dame CathedralLate Gothic cathedral with a crypt holding the grand ducal tombs.
5. Place d'ArmesThe lively main square lined with cafe terraces and a bandstand.
6. Gelle FraThe Golden Lady war memorial on Constitution Square, a national symbol.
7. GrundLow riverside quarter along the Alzette with old stone houses and buzzing bars.
8. Pont AdolpheThe landmark stone arch bridge with a hidden cycle and pedestrian deck slung underneath.
9. MudamI.M. Pei's museum of modern art on the Kirchberg plateau, built into the old fort walls.
10. Pfaffenthal panoramic liftFree glass elevator dropping 71 metres from the upper town to the valley floor.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. ViandenStorybook hilltop castle above the Our valley in the north, about an hour by car.
2. Mullerthal and EchternachLittle Switzerland hiking trails and the country's oldest town, both easy day trips east.
3. Trier, GermanyGermany's oldest city with Roman gates and baths, only about 50km over the border.
4. Metz, FranceElegant French city with a soaring Gothic cathedral and a Pompidou outpost, under an hour south.
5. Moselle wine valleyRiverside villages like Remich and Grevenmacher for cremant tastings along the German border.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Chocolate HouseRight opposite the palace, famous for hot chocolate spoons you stir into warm milk.
2. Konrad CafeBook-lined old town spot popular with a young creative crowd for coffee and cake.
3. Knopes Coffee RoastersLocal roaster with a proper espresso bar and beans roasted in the country.
4. PaulReliable French bakery cafe with several branches for coffee and a pastry.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. ChiggeriLong-running old town restaurant with a famously vast wine list and a garden terrace.
2. Brasserie GuillaumeBuzzy brasserie on Place Guillaume II known for oysters and seafood platters.
3. Am TiirmschenCosy stone-walled spot for traditional Luxembourgish plates like judd mat gaardebounen.
4. MosconiMichelin-starred Italian dining in a refined townhouse down in the Grund.
5. Kaempff-KohlerHistoric deli and restaurant for local specialities and a well-stocked cheese counter.
6. La CristallerieMichelin fine dining inside the Hotel Le Place d'Armes for a special occasion.
7. BacchusPopular casual pizzeria near the palace, good for a relaxed family dinner.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. OberweisBeloved Luxembourgish patisserie on Grand-Rue with a tearoom for breakfast and brunch.
2. NamurHistoric local pastry house serving viennoiseries and light morning plates.
3. PaulFrench bakery for croissants, tartines and coffee to start the day.
4. Chocolate HousePastries and legendary hot chocolate a step from the Grand Ducal Palace.
5. Kaempff-KohlerDeli-style brunch with fresh bread, eggs and charcuterie.
6. Konrad CafeEasy-going old town cafe for a slow weekend breakfast.
7. Knopes Coffee RoastersStrong coffee and a simple morning bite from the country's own roaster.