Montenegro

Cost of living

What a month costs

Summer prices spike and central rentals are tight; go inland or off-season to save.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Kotor

1. St Tryphon's CathedralRomanesque cathedral consecrated in 1166 on its own quiet square.
2. Fortress of San GiovanniAbout 1350 steps up the walls to St John's fortress and the best view in town.
3. Kotor Old TownCar-free maze of squares, churches and polished stone lanes.
4. Sea GateThe main 16th-century entrance leading onto the Square of Arms.
5. Maritime Museum of MontenegroThe bay's long seafaring history housed in a baroque palace.
6. Church of St LukeTiny 12th-century church that has held both Catholic and Orthodox altars.
7. St Nicholas ChurchBig Orthodox church with dark twin towers just off the main lanes.
8. Clock TowerThe 1602 landmark that anchors the main square.
9. Square of ArmsThe buzzing central plaza ringed with cafes and the old arsenal.
10. Ladder of KotorOld switchback mule trail zigzagging up the mountain behind town.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. PerastBaroque bayside village and the island church of Our Lady of the Rocks, 20 minutes up the coast.
2. BudvaLively beach resort with its own walled old town, about half an hour south.
3. Lovcen National ParkSwitchback drive up to Njegos's mausoleum and huge views over the whole bay.
4. Dubrovnik, CroatiaThe famous walled city sits a scenic two-hour drive up the Adriatic.
5. Sveti StefanPhotogenic islet hotel and pebble beaches near Budva, best seen from the clifftop.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Forza de CattaroThe main-square cafe everyone ends up at sooner or later.
2. CesareEspresso and people-watching under the clock tower.
3. BokunSnug wine bar that pours a serious coffee too.
4. Caffe Bar BandieraShady corner tucked into the old-town lanes.
5. Pizzeria ProntoCasual spot for a quick coffee and a slice on the go.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. GalionUpscale seafood with marina and fortress views, the special-occasion pick.
2. Stari MliniRomantic old watermill in Ljuta serving fresh fish by the water.
3. Konoba Scala SantaTraditional konoba deep in the old town with hearty local plates.
4. CesareDalmatian and Montenegrin cooking right on the Square of Arms.
5. TanjgaLegendary no-frills grill with huge cheap portions, cash only.
6. Konoba PortunCozy stone-walled konoba for grilled fish and local wine.
7. BastionSeafood and terrace seating by the northern river gate.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Forza de CattaroCoffee, eggs and a croissant to start the day on the main square.
2. CesareRelaxed morning espresso and pastries by the clock tower.
3. Caffe Bar BandieraQuiet corner for a slow coffee and a light bite.
4. NamuAsian-leaning brunch and good coffee in the old town.
5. BokunLight morning plates and proper coffee before the crowds.
6. Pizzeria ProntoEarly coffee and fresh baked goods on the way through.
7. BastionWaterside breakfast near the river gate with room to spread out.
8. Konoba PortunSit-down spot for a hearty late-morning start.
9. Hotel Vardar terraceMorning coffee and a simple breakfast right on the square.