Croatia

Cost of living

What a month costs

Summer tourism pushes rents and prices up sharply from June to September.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Split

1. Diocletian's PalaceA living Roman palace from around 300 AD that forms the heart of the old town.
2. Cathedral of Saint DomniusOne of the oldest cathedrals still in use, with a bell tower you can climb for rooftop views.
3. Riva promenadeThe palm-lined waterfront where the whole city strolls, sits and people-watches.
4. Marjan HillA pine-covered peninsula park with trails, chapels and swimming coves right by the center.
5. PeristyleThe palace's grand central courtyard, still a stage for concerts and evening gatherings.
6. Bacvice beachA sandy city beach famous for picigin, the local shallow-water ball game.
7. Grgur Ninski statueA towering Mestrovic bronze whose big toe is rubbed shiny by visitors hoping for luck.
8. Split City MuseumA palace-era mansion tracing the town's story from Roman days onward.
9. Mestrovic GalleryThe seaside villa of Croatia's greatest sculptor, filled with his work.
10. Fruit SquareA pretty little baroque plaza just off the main drag, ringed by cafes and old towers.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. HvarA short ferry away, this island mixes lavender fields, old stone towns and lively nightlife.
2. Krka National ParkWaterfalls and wooden walkways about an hour north, calmer than Plitvice and swimmable in spots.
3. DubrovnikThe walled city down the coast, worth the drive for its ramparts and old-town alleys.
4. TrogirA tiny UNESCO-listed island town 30 minutes west, packed with medieval streets and cafes.
5. BracHome to the famous Zlatni Rat beach, an easy day or overnight by ferry from the port.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. LuxorThe classic spot to sip coffee on cushions right in the palace's Peristyle.
2. D16 CoffeeA specialty roaster in a stone lane serving some of the best flat whites in town.
3. BokeriaA stylish kitchen and bar that doubles as a favorite daytime coffee stop.
4. Kavana BajamontiAn elegant grand cafe on Republic Square with a proper old-world feel.
5. Kraš Choco BarA cozy chocolate-and-coffee spot near the Riva from Croatia's famous confectioner.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. Konoba MatejuskaA tiny fishermen's tavern near the harbor doing simple, honest grilled seafood.
2. Villa SpizaA local favorite with a short daily chalkboard menu of Dalmatian home cooking.
3. Bokeria Kitchen & Wine BarA buzzy, high-ceilinged spot mixing Mediterranean plates and good wine.
4. DvorTerraced tables above the sea east of center for a special-occasion dinner.
5. Konoba FetiviA no-frills family konoba known for fresh fish and brudet stew.
6. ZoiA refined restaurant on the Riva with palace views and modern Dalmatian dishes.
7. Uje Oil BarA cozy stone-walled place celebrating Croatian olive oil, tapas and local wine.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. BokeriaReliable brunch plates and strong coffee in a lively industrial-chic room.
2. D16 CoffeeGreat pastries and eggs to go with its serious specialty coffee.
3. Kantun PaulinaThe go-to counter for cevapi in a warm somun bun, a proper local breakfast.
4. Pekarnica KruscicA beloved artisan bakery for burek, bread and morning pastries.
5. Corto MalteseA relaxed all-day eatery known for hearty breakfasts and burgers.
6. Brasserie on 7A Riva-front brasserie serving full breakfasts with a sea view.
7. FigA laid-back cafe-restaurant popular with expats for its brunch and flat whites.
8. BepaA modern Mediterranean spot near Bacvice with a good morning menu.
9. Torte i ToA cheerful patisserie for cakes, croissants and coffee to start the day.