Sao Tome and Principe
Profiled in São Tomé · Central Africa
São Tomé runs on cocoa, faded plantation grandeur and slow equatorial days, a tiny Portuguese-speaking island capital where rainforest tumbles down to the sea and nobody hurries.
Cost of living
What a month costs
Local fish, fruit and cocoa are cheap, but almost everything else is shipped in, so imported food, electronics and fuel cost more than the low rents suggest.
The scores
How it rates for a moving family
See and do
Top 10 in São Tomé
- Sé Catedral de São ToméThe whitewashed colonial cathedral overlooking the old town.
- Forte de São SebastiãoA 16th-century sea fort that now houses the national museum.
- Palácio PresidencialThe pink presidential palace facing Ana Chaves bay.
- Mercado MunicipalThe chaotic central market for fish, palm oil, breadfruit and tropical produce.
- Praça da IndependênciaThe main colonial square, ringed by pastel Portuguese-era buildings.
- Baía Ana ChavesThe city bay and waterfront where fishing pirogues come in at dusk.
- Boca do InfernoA dramatic coastal blowhole just south of town where waves shoot up through the rocks.
- Roça Agostinho NetoA vast, decaying cocoa plantation on the northern edge of the city, ghostly and photogenic.
- Praia das ConchasA pretty dark-sand beach a short drive north, popular for weekend swims.
Where to go
Weekend escapes
- Príncipe islandA short flight north to a lush UNESCO biosphere reserve, all empty beaches and dense forest.
- Pico Cão GrandeThe needle-shaped volcanic plug rising out of the southern jungle, one of the great sights of the Gulf of Guinea.
- Ilhéu das RolasA small islet off the south coast where you can stand with a foot on each side of the equator line.
- São João dos AngolaresA southern fishing village known for chef João Carlos Silva and his celebrated plantation-house kitchen.
- Praia Piscina and the southern beachesCalm, shallow turquoise coves near Porto Alegre that make for an easy overnight escape.
Coffee
Best cafes
- Claudio CoralloThe famous cocoa and coffee tasting room in Água Grande, run by the island's best-known chocolate maker.
Restaurants
Where to eat
- Omali LodgeThe restaurant at the boutique lodge near the bay, reliable for fresh fish and a proper sit-down meal.
- Pico MocamboA small central boutique hotel with a well-regarded kitchen and bar.
- FilomarA seafood spot out at Pantufo just east of town, known for grilled catch of the day.
Morning
Best breakfast
- Omali LodgeTerrace breakfast with tropical fruit and good coffee, a calm start to the day near the water.
- Pico MocamboCentral hotel breakfast that non-guests can usually join, handy before exploring the old town.
Residency
São Tomé and Príncipe grants residence permits to retirees and remote workers who can show steady income, processed through the immigration service in the capital. Everything is slow and in Portuguese, so budget extra time and a local fixer.
Tax
Residents are taxed on local income with personal rates topping out around 25 percent, and there is no special expat regime. Enforcement on foreign pensions and offshore income is light but the rules are opaque, so take local advice before you count on any break.
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