Serbia

Cost of living

What a month costs

One of Europe's better value capitals. Eating out, transport and coffee stay cheap, but central rents have climbed fast since 2022 as newcomers arrived, so a good one-bedroom near the centre now costs far more than locals remember.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Belgrade

1. Belgrade Fortress and KalemegdanThe city's heart, a sprawling old fortress and park where the Sava meets the Danube. Best at sunset.
2. Church of Saint SavaOne of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, with a glittering gold mosaic interior finished recently.
3. Knez MihailovaThe grand pedestrian spine of the old town, lined with shops, buskers and 19th century facades.
4. SkadarlijaA cobbled bohemian lane of old taverns, live music and painters, Belgrade's answer to Montmartre.
5. Ada CiganlijaA river island turned city beach, with a swimming lake, bike paths and cafes packed all summer.
6. Nikola Tesla MuseumA compact museum holding the inventor's ashes and working models, with live electricity demonstrations.
7. Zemun and Gardos TowerA former Austro-Hungarian town now inside Belgrade, with a hilltop tower, tiled roofs and riverside fish restaurants.
8. Republic Square and the National MuseumThe city's main meeting point, anchored by the revamped National Museum and the National Theatre.
9. House of Flowers and Museum of YugoslaviaTito's mausoleum and a thoughtful museum that unpacks the country's socialist past.
10. Savamala and the Sava waterfrontA once industrial district turned into a strip of bars and galleries beside the new riverfront promenade.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Novi SadAn hour north by train or road. A relaxed university city under the huge Petrovaradin Fortress, home of the EXIT festival each summer.
2. Fruska Gora and Sremski KarlovciA low green mountain dotted with Orthodox monasteries, next to a pretty baroque wine town. Easy to pair with Novi Sad.
3. Golubac Fortress and the Iron GatesTwo hours east along the Danube, where the river narrows into a dramatic gorge below a restored medieval fortress.
4. ZlatiborA breezy highland resort about three and a half hours southwest, good for hiking in summer and easy skiing in winter.
5. Topola and OplenacAn hour south. The royal Karadjordjevic mausoleum sits among vineyards, making it a classic day of history and wine.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. KafeterijaA local specialty coffee favourite with several branches, reliably good espresso and a busy morning crowd.
2. PrzionicaA pioneer roaster in Dorcol and Savamala, serious about single origin coffee.
3. KoffeinA popular homegrown chain, good for a long sit with a laptop or a catch up.
4. Crna OvcaThe Black Sheep, best known for artisanal gelato but a fine spot for coffee and a sweet break.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. AmbarModern Balkan small plates on the Beton Hala waterfront, lively and popular with visitors.
2. Iva New Balkan CuisineChef driven tasting menus that reinvent regional dishes, one of the city's best fine dining rooms.
3. Little BayA theatrical opera-box dining room with live singers and generous, well priced plates.
4. Lorenzo and KakalambaA wildly decorated Italian and Balkan mashup, as much fun for the interior as the food.
5. Tri SesiraA historic Skadarlija tavern serving grilled meats and traditional fare with live music.
6. ManufakturaA big, buzzy spot near the pedestrian zone doing home style Serban cooking under a canopy of umbrellas.
7. RekaA Zemun riverside institution for grilled and fried fish beside the Danube.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. SmokvicaA charming cafe with several locations, a go-to for weekend brunch, eggs and fresh juices.
2. Radost Fina KuhinjicaA cosy Dorcol favourite for vegetarian plates and a slow, healthy morning.
3. Pekara TrpkovicA beloved bakery for burek, the flaky Balkan pastry Belgraders eat on the go.
4. HomaA polished all-day spot doing reliable brunch and coffee at more than one address.
5. Toro Latin Gastro BarA waterfront room at Beton Hala with a good weekend brunch and river views.