Turkey

Cost of living

What a month costs

Rents in central districts have climbed fast, so shop hard and expect to pay upfront.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Istanbul

1. Hagia SophiaFifteen centuries of history under one giant dome, once church, then mosque, now icon.
2. Blue MosqueThe Sultanahmet Mosque and its cascade of domes and six slender minarets.
3. Topkapı PalaceThe sprawling seat of Ottoman sultans, with the harem and dazzling treasury.
4. Grand BazaarOne of the world's oldest covered markets, a maze of carpets, gold and lanterns.
5. Basilica CisternAn eerie underground water palace of columns and famous Medusa heads.
6. Galata TowerA medieval Genoese tower with the best 360 view over the old city and the Bosphorus.
7. Spice BazaarPyramids of saffron, dried fruit and Turkish delight beside the Eminönü waterfront.
8. Dolmabahçe PalaceA lavish 19th century European style palace right on the Bosphorus shore.
9. Süleymaniye MosqueSinan's serene hilltop masterpiece with sweeping views of the Golden Horn.
10. Bosphorus cruiseA boat ride between two continents past palaces, fortresses and waterfront villas.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Princes' IslandsA short ferry to car-free Büyükada for pine woods, seafood and old wooden mansions.
2. BursaThe first Ottoman capital with grand mosques, silk markets and the ski slopes of Uludağ.
3. EdirneHome to Sinan's masterpiece the Selimiye Mosque, near the Greek and Bulgarian borders.
4. Şile and AğvaBlack Sea beach towns with quiet river coves, an easy escape from the summer heat.
5. Sapanca and MasukiyeA calm lake ringed by forest and trout restaurants, popular for slow weekends.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. MandabatmazA tiny Beyoğlu institution serving some of the thickest Turkish coffee in the city.
2. Pierre Loti CaféA hilltop terrace in Eyüp reached by cable car, with a classic Golden Horn view.
3. KronotropA pioneer of Istanbul's specialty coffee scene, roasting its own beans in Cihangir.
4. KarabatakThe Karaköy spot that helped kick off the neighborhood's third wave coffee craze.
5. Federal Coffee CompanyA reliable Australian style café group popular with the laptop and flat white crowd.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. MiklaChef Mehmet Gürs's rooftop fine dining, modern Anatolian food with a knockout view.
2. Çiya SofrasıA beloved Kadıköy kitchen reviving forgotten regional dishes from across Anatolia.
3. Karaköy LokantasıA handsome tiled meyhane for classic mezes, seafood and rakı.
4. Hamdi RestaurantA long-running kebab house near the Spice Bazaar with terrace views over the water.
5. AsitanePainstakingly researched Ottoman palace cuisine near the Chora museum.
6. Balıkçı SabahattinA traditional fish restaurant in old Sultanahmet, meze first and catch of the day next.
7. DeveliA century-old Gaziantep kebab and baklava name with several branches across town.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Van Kahvaltı EviThe Cihangir favorite for a full eastern Turkish spread of cheeses, honey and eggs.
2. Namlı GurmeA busy Karaköy deli piling tables high with cheeses, olives and cured meats.
3. Emirgan SütişA leafy Bosphorus garden famous for its clotted cream, börek and unhurried mornings.
4. Privato CaféA cozy Galata townhouse serving a generous traditional breakfast on tiered plates.
5. Kale CafeA Çengelköy waterfront classic on the Asian shore, best on a sunny weekend.
6. Beşiktaş Kahvaltıcılar SokağıA whole lane of breakfast houses where you point and graze until you burst.
7. Bebek KahveA see and be seen spot on the smart Bebek waterfront for a slow morning coffee.
8. Çengelköy BörekçisiThe go-to on the Asian side for flaky börek and tea by the ferry stop.
9. Karaköy GüllüoğluThe historic baklava house that also does a mean börek and morning tea.