Slovenia

Cost of living

What a month costs

Cheaper than Vienna or Milan but pricier than the Balkans. Rent in the car-free centre is the big line item. Groceries and public transport are reasonable.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Ljubljana

1. Ljubljana CastleThe hilltop fortress over the old town, reached on foot or by funicular.
2. Triple BridgePlečnik's signature trio of bridges fanning out from Prešeren Square.
3. Dragon BridgeArt Nouveau bridge guarded by the four copper dragons that became the city symbol.
4. Prešeren SquareThe pink-fronted heart of the city, ringed by cafes and street life.
5. Ljubljana Central MarketPlečnik's riverside colonnade of stalls, fish hall and open-air produce market.
6. Tivoli ParkThe big landscaped park on the edge of the centre, good for runs and family walks.
7. MetelkovaA former barracks turned autonomous art and nightlife quarter covered in murals.
8. NebotičnikThe 1930s skyscraper with a rooftop cafe and bar for wide city views.
9. National Gallery of SloveniaThe main collection of Slovenian and European art near Tivoli Park.
10. St Nicholas CathedralBaroque cathedral with bronze doors, tucked behind the central market.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Lake BledThe postcard alpine lake with an island church and clifftop castle, about an hour northwest.
2. Lake Bohinj and Triglav National ParkBigger, wilder and quieter than Bled, deep inside Slovenia's only national park.
3. Postojna Cave and Predjama CastleA vast karst cave with a train ride, plus a castle built into a cliff face nearby.
4. PiranA Venetian-flavoured town on the short Adriatic coast, all narrow lanes and sea views.
5. Kranjska Gora and Vintgar GorgeAlpine resort near the Italian and Austrian borders, with a famous boardwalk gorge close by.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Kavarna ZvezdaGrand old cake house famous for its cremeschnitte and gibanica slices.
2. CacaoRiverside dessert cafe known for ice cream and long brunches by the Ljubljanica.
3. Le Petit CafeFrench-style corner spot on Trg francoske revolucije, a local institution for coffee.
4. Slaščičarna LolitaPastel patisserie right by the Triple Bridge, strong on cakes and macarons.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. JB RestavracijaJanez Bratovž's long-running fine-dining room, one of the city's most decorated tables.
2. Gostilna ASPolished old-town classic known for seafood and pasta, with a lively courtyard bar.
3. StrelecRefined dining inside Ljubljana Castle with historic rooms and castle views.
4. ŠpajzaCosy Old Town gostilna mixing traditional Slovenian dishes with a modern touch.
5. JulijaSmall Stari trg favourite for hearty regional cooking in the pedestrian core.
6. Gostilna SokolRustic tavern serving classic Slovenian plates like sausages, štruklji and game.
7. Monstera BistroBine Volčič's ingredient-led bistro with seasonal tasting menus.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Ek BistroThe city's go-to brunch spot, famous for pancakes, eggs and long weekend queues.
2. Le Petit CafeEasygoing French breakfasts of croissants, omelettes and strong coffee.
3. CacaoRiverside brunch of eggs, waffles and pastries with a view of the water.
4. Kavarna ZvezdaMorning coffee and cake in a classic Central European cafe setting.
5. TOZDRelaxed coffee bar on Trubarjeva for a quick morning cup and pastry.