Sri Lanka

Cost of living

What a month costs

Still cheap by Western standards, but noticeably pricier than a few years ago after the 2022 crisis brought steep tax, fuel and utility hikes.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Colombo

1. Galle Face GreenLong oceanfront lawn where families fly kites and street vendors sell isso wade at sunset.
2. Gangaramaya TempleBusy Buddhist temple near Beira Lake, packed with relics, statues and a small museum.
3. Colombo National MuseumThe country's largest museum, strong on ancient sculpture and royal regalia.
4. Independence Memorial HallGrand stone pavilion marking independence, set in a leafy square popular for morning walks.
5. Pettah MarketDense, loud bazaar district where whole streets are given over to a single trade.
6. Jami Ul-Alfar MosqueThe candy-striped red and white Red Mosque, a landmark in the heart of Pettah.
7. Old Dutch HospitalRestored colonial complex now full of restaurants, boutiques and cafes.
8. Viharamahadevi ParkThe city's oldest and biggest park, with old trees, a Buddha statue and playgrounds.
9. Colombo Lotus TowerA towering pink and green broadcast tower with an observation deck over the skyline.
10. Beira LakeCentral lake ringed by temples and offices, good for an easy stroll or pedal boat.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. GalleWalled Dutch fort town on the south coast, about two hours away by expressway.
2. KandyHill capital around the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, roughly three hours inland.
3. BentotaPalm-lined beach and river resort strip, a classic weekend south of the city.
4. NegomboFishing town and beach next to the airport, easy for a quick coastal escape.
5. Nuwara EliyaCool tea-country hill station with colonial bungalows and green plantations.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Barefoot Garden CafeLeafy courtyard cafe tucked behind the famous Barefoot fabric shop on Galle Road.
2. The Commons Coffee HousePopular specialty coffee spot with strong brews and a relaxed working crowd.
3. Cafe KumbukHealthy, farm-to-table cafe known for smoothie bowls and good coffee.
4. t-Lounge by DilmahSleek tea lounge from the Dilmah family showcasing single-origin Ceylon teas.
5. Black Cat CafeCosy neighbourhood cafe with big breakfasts and homemade cakes.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. Ministry of CrabWorld-famous seafood restaurant in the Old Dutch Hospital, built around Sri Lankan mud crab.
2. NihonbashiLong-running high-end Japanese restaurant, one of the city's best-known fine-dining rooms.
3. Upali's by NawalokaComfortable place for classic Sri Lankan home-style curries and rice.
4. Kaema SutraModern take on Sri Lankan cuisine from chef Dharshan Munidasa at the Shangri-La.
5. Paradise Road The Gallery CafeStylish restaurant in a Geoffrey Bawa building, good for a long lunch or dinner.
6. The LagoonSeafood restaurant at Cinnamon Grand where you pick your catch from the ice display.
7. Raja BojunBig buffet of traditional Sri Lankan dishes, handy for trying many things at once.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Perera & SonsUbiquitous bakery chain for quick fish buns, patties and milk tea.
2. Green CabinOld-school Galle Road spot loved for hoppers, string hoppers and short eats.
3. The Commons Coffee HouseReliable eggs, toast and proper coffee for a slower morning.
4. Cafe KumbukBrunch-friendly menu of bowls, eggs and fresh juices.
5. ShanmugasWellawatte institution for South Indian dosa, idli and vada breakfasts.
6. PilawoosLegendary late-night and early-morning joint for kottu and cheese hoppers.
7. Barefoot Garden CafeCalm garden setting for a leisurely weekend breakfast.