Sweden

Cost of living

What a month costs

Stockholm is genuinely expensive. Rent, alcohol and eating out sting the most, but transport, childcare and healthcare are heavily subsidised, which softens the family maths.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Stockholm

1. Gamla StanThe medieval old town, all ochre facades, narrow lanes and the main royal square.
2. Vasa MuseumA near-complete 17th century warship raised from the harbour. The most visited museum in Scandinavia.
3. The Royal PalaceOne of Europe's largest working palaces, with a daily changing of the guard in Gamla Stan.
4. SkansenThe world's oldest open-air museum on Djurgarden, part living history village, part Nordic zoo.
5. DjurgardenA green island of museums, parkland and waterside paths, made for a long family walk.
6. Stockholm City HallThe red brick landmark where the Nobel banquet is held, with a climbable tower over the water.
7. FotografiskaA large contemporary photography museum in a former customs house, open late with a top floor view.
8. ABBA The MuseumAn interactive pop shrine on Djurgarden that reliably wins over kids and reluctant parents alike.
9. Moderna MuseetSweden's national modern art collection on Skeppsholmen, with Picasso, Dali and harbour views.
10. Drottningholm PalaceA UNESCO listed royal residence with baroque gardens, reachable by boat across Lake Malaren.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Vaxholm and the archipelagoAn hour by ferry into 30,000 islands. Vaxholm fortress, red cabins and swimming off the rocks.
2. UppsalaForty minutes north by train. Grand cathedral, a famous old university and easy riverside cafes.
3. SigtunaSweden's oldest town on Lake Malaren, with rune stones, a low wooden main street and a slow Sunday feel.
4. Mariefred and Gripsholm CastleA lakeside town reached by road or a vintage steamboat, built around a red 16th century royal castle.
5. GothenburgThree hours west by fast train. Sweden's second city, big on seafood, canals and a warmer welcome.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Vete-KattenA beloved 1920s konditori with warren-like rooms, the classic spot for a proper fika.
2. Cafe SaturnusFamous for enormous cinnamon buns near Odenplan, always busy for good reason.
3. SturekattenA cosy old-world tearoom off Stureplan spread across a former apartment.
4. Rosendals TradgardA biodynamic garden cafe on Djurgarden with sourdough and cakes among the greenhouses.
5. Johan and NystromThe flagship of a respected Swedish coffee roaster, on the Sodermalm waterfront.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. FrantzenSweden's three Michelin star flagship, a splurge that needs booking well ahead.
2. EkstedtEverything cooked over open fire and wood embers, no gas or electricity in the kitchen.
3. Oaxen KrogA refined New Nordic tasting menu out on Djurgarden, with a relaxed slow food bistro next door.
4. SturehofA grand classic brasserie by Stureplan, strong on Swedish seafood and open late.
5. PelikanA traditional beer hall in Sodermalm serving husmanskost, the honest home cooking of Sweden.
6. Meatballs for the PeopleA Sodermalm spot doing meatballs every way, from moose to veggie, in a buzzy setting.
7. OperakallarenA historic fine dining room inside the Royal Opera house, all gilt and old-Stockholm grandeur.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. FabriqueAn artisan sourdough bakery with several branches, great for a quick bun and coffee.
2. Cafe PascalA local favourite for excellent coffee and a proper breakfast plate, with a few locations around town.
3. Greasy SpoonBritish-style brunch in Sodermalm doing eggs, pancakes and a full plate that draws queues.
4. Snickarbacken 7A calm cafe and design shop in a former stable near Birger Jarlsgatan.
5. Il CaffeA homegrown Stockholm coffee bar chain, reliable for a light morning start.
6. Vete-KattenThe classic konditori also does a lovely early morning bun and coffee before the crowds.
7. Rosendals TradgardA garden breakfast on Djurgarden, worth the walk for the setting alone.