Portugal

Cost of living

What a month costs

Rents have climbed hard; central Lisbon now costs close to Western Europe.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Lisbon

1. Belem TowerRiverside fortress and the postcard image of the age of discovery.
2. Jeronimos MonasteryVast Manueline cloister and the heart of Belem.
3. Sao Jorge CastleHilltop ramparts with the best wide view of the city.
4. AlfamaTangle of old lanes where fado spills out of tiny bars.
5. Tram 28Rattling yellow tram that climbs through the historic core.
6. Praca do ComercioGrand riverfront square framing the arch on Rua Augusta.
7. Miradouro da Senhora do MonteHighest viewpoint, unbeatable at sunset.
8. LX FactoryOld industrial site turned shops, food and street art under the bridge.
9. Time Out MarketBuzzing food hall gathering the city's best kitchens under one roof.
10. Gulbenkian MuseumWorld-class art collection set in calm gardens.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. SintraFairytale palaces and misty forest just 40 minutes by train.
2. CascaisBreezy seaside town with beaches and an easy coastal ride.
3. EvoraWalled Alentejo city with Roman ruins and slow wine country.
4. ObidosWhitewashed medieval village ringed by castle walls.
5. ArrabidaTurquoise coves and a green nature park south of the river.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. A BrasileiraHistoric Chiado cafe with a bronze Pessoa out front.
2. Pasteis de BelemThe original custard tart, warm and dusted with cinnamon.
3. Fabrica Coffee RoastersSerious specialty coffee near Avenida da Liberdade.
4. Copenhagen Coffee LabNordic-style roaster with strong flat whites and pastries.
5. Confeitaria NacionalGrand 1829 pastry house on Praca da Figueira.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. Cervejaria RamiroLegendary seafood and beer institution, always packed.
2. BelcantoJose Avillez two-star tasting menu, the city's fine-dining flagship.
3. Time Out MarketOne-stop hall for many of Lisbon's top chefs.
4. A CevicheriaBright Peruvian-Portuguese plates under a giant octopus.
5. Solar dos PresuntosOld-school spot for northern classics and grilled fish.
6. O Prego da PeixariaCasual local favorite for steak and fish sandwiches.
7. PharmaciaQuirky garden restaurant with modern Portuguese sharing plates.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Dear BreakfastBright all-day brunch with eggs, bowls and good coffee.
2. Nicolau LisboaInstagram-favorite brunch near the Baixa with pancakes and toasts.
3. Heim CafeSantos brunch staple with hearty plates and cakes.
4. The MillAussie-run cafe with proper flat whites and avocado toast.
5. ComobaCais do Sodre spot for healthy bowls and specialty coffee.
6. ZenithPopular brunch chain with generous American-style plates.
7. Fauna and FloraGreen, plant-heavy brunch cafe near Santos.
8. Seagull Method CafeColorful Alcantara cafe with all-day brunch and pastries.
9. AmeliaCozy Estrela cafe known for fresh brunch and cakes.