Uruguay

Cost of living

What a month costs

The priciest capital in South America, and imported goods sting.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Montevideo

1. Rambla de MontevideoA 22km waterfront promenade that is the soul of the city.
2. Ciudad ViejaThe old town of faded grandeur, museums, and lunch spots.
3. Plaza IndependenciaThe grand central square with Artigas on horseback and his mausoleum below.
4. Palacio SalvoThe eccentric 1920s tower that still defines the skyline.
5. Teatro SolísThe elegant 19th-century opera house, still the main stage in town.
6. Mercado del PuertoA cast-iron market hall of roaring parrilla grills near the docks.
7. Estadio CentenarioHome of the first World Cup final and a football museum.
8. Playa PocitosThe city beach where locals swim, jog, and play beach volleyball.
9. Parque RodóA leafy park with a lake, a fairground, and the fine arts museum.
10. Mercado Agrícola de MontevideoA restored produce market turned buzzing food hall.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Colonia del SacramentoCobbled UNESCO old town on the river, an easy two hours west.
2. Punta del EsteUruguay's glossy beach resort, packed and lively every summer.
3. PiriápolisOld-world seaside town with a hill funicular and quiet beaches.
4. CarmeloSleepy wine country with tannat vineyards and riverside lodges.
5. Cabo PolonioOff-grid dune village reached by 4x4, sea lions and no streetlights.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Café BrasileroThe oldest café in town, open since 1877 in Ciudad Vieja.
2. EscaramuzaA beloved bookshop café with a garden courtyard in Cordón.
3. La Farmacia CaféA cozy Ciudad Vieja favorite in a former pharmacy.
4. Culto CaféSpecialty coffee crowd pleaser with strong flat whites.
5. The Lab Coffee RoastersHouse-roasted beans and serious pour-overs in Punta Carretas.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. El PalenqueThe iconic parrilla in Mercado del Puerto, grilled meat done right.
2. FrancisPolished Punta Carretas classic for fish, pasta, and steaks.
3. JacintoChef Lucía Soria's warm Ciudad Vieja spot for seasonal cooking.
4. La PulperíaA small Punta Carretas parrilla where the queue is worth it.
5. GarcíaA Carrasco institution for wood-fired steak and family lunches.
6. Rara AvisFine dining tucked inside the Teatro Solís building.
7. La PerdizA long-running Pocitos parrilla popular with locals and visitors.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. Café BrasileroMedia lunas and strong coffee under century-old ceilings.
2. EscaramuzaWeekend brunch among the bookshelves and the garden.
3. La Farmacia CaféEggs, pastries, and good coffee to start a slow morning.
4. Culto CaféToasts and specialty coffee for the morning crowd.
5. The Lab Coffee RoastersPour-overs and simple plates in Punta Carretas.
6. Oro del RhinA historic confitería famous for its pastries and cakes.
7. La PasivaThe classic Uruguayan spot for a chivito and morning coffee.
8. SometimesA cheerful Pocitos café known for its brunch plates.
9. Seis MontesA leafy garden café with a relaxed weekend breakfast.