Paraguay

Cost of living

What a month costs

One of the cheapest capitals in South America. Rent, food and household help are very affordable, but imported goods, electronics and cars cost noticeably more.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Asunción

1. Palacio de los LópezThe grand riverfront presidential palace, floodlit and photogenic after dark.
2. Panteón Nacional de los HéroesDomed national mausoleum in the heart of downtown, guarded around the clock.
3. Costanera de AsunciónRiverside promenade along the Paraguay river, good for a run, a bike ride or sunset.
4. Cabildo Cultural CentreFormer colonial town hall on Plaza de la Independencia, now a museum and arts space.
5. Manzana de la RiveraCluster of restored colonial houses beside the palace, home to small museums and a café.
6. Estación Central del FerrocarrilHandsome old railway station and museum from the early steam era.
7. Mercado 4Sprawling, chaotic street market where the city shops, eats and haggles.
8. Museo del BarroStandout museum of Paraguayan folk, indigenous and contemporary art.
9. Catedral MetropolitanaThe city cathedral facing its own plaza in the historic centre.
10. Loma San JerónimoColourful hillside barrio of painted houses, murals and tiny cafés above the river.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. San BernardinoLakeside resort town on Lake Ypacaraí, about an hour east and the classic Asunción summer escape.
2. AreguáCobbled artisan town on the same lake, known for ceramics, strawberries and a hilltop basilica.
3. ItauguáHome of ñandutí, the fine Paraguayan spiderweb lace, half an hour along the road east.
4. Chololó and PiribebuyWaterfalls, streams and green hills in the Cordillera, a favourite day or weekend trip for cooling off.
5. Encarnación and TrinidadSouthern river city with sandy beaches, plus the UNESCO Jesuit ruins nearby; a longer five to six hour haul but worth the drive.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Café de AcáHome-grown specialty coffee roaster with several bright branches around the city.
2. HavannaArgentine café and alfajor institution, easy to find in the shopping malls.
3. La VienesaLong-running confitería and bakery chain for medialunas, cakes and coffee.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. TalleyrandOld-guard fine dining, a formal Asunción institution for decades.
2. Tierra Colorada GastroModern Paraguayan tasting menus from chef Rodolfo Angenscheidt.
3. Lido BarIconic curved counter across from the Panteón, famous for fish soup and empanadas.
4. Paulista GrillGenerous Brazilian-style churrascaria for all-you-can-eat grilled meats.
5. La CabreraArgentine steakhouse with a smart branch at Paseo La Galería.
6. MburicaóElegant contemporary restaurant popular for special occasions.
7. Ciervo BlancoDinner with live Paraguayan harp and folklore dancing.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. BolsiRound-the-clock café-restaurant downtown, an Asunción classic for an early coffee and medialunas.
2. La VienesaReliable bakery breakfast of fresh pastries, juice and coffee.
3. HavannaCoffee, medialunas and alfajores when you want something familiar.
4. Café de AcáBetter beans and a proper brunch plate if you care about the coffee.