Peru

Cost of living

What a month costs

Lima is easy on the wallet by Western standards. A set lunch menu runs a few dollars, while a Miraflores apartment and a table at a top restaurant cost far more.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in Lima

1. Plaza MayorThe colonial heart of Lima, ringed by the cathedral, the archbishop's palace, and the government palace.
2. Basílica y Convento de San FranciscoA yellow baroque church famous for its underground catacombs and old library.
3. Huaca PucllanaA pre-Inca adobe pyramid rising in the middle of residential Miraflores.
4. Malecón de MirafloresA string of clifftop parks and paths looking straight out over the Pacific.
5. Parque del AmorA Miraflores clifftop park with Gaudí-style mosaics and the huge kissing sculpture El Beso.
6. BarrancoThe bohemian district of murals, galleries, and the Puente de los Suspiros.
7. Museo LarcoA beautiful colonial mansion in Pueblo Libre holding a vast pre-Columbian art collection.
8. Circuito Mágico del AguaA record-holding set of illuminated fountains in the Parque de la Reserva.
9. Museo de Arte de LimaThe city's main art museum, MALI, set in a grand old exhibition palace.
10. Parque KennedyThe busy central square of Miraflores, known for its resident cats and evening buzz.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. Paracas and the Islas BallestasBoat trips to sea lions and seabirds, plus the red desert of the Paracas reserve, about three and a half hours south.
2. Huacachina and IcaA palm-fringed desert oasis with dune buggies, sandboarding, and pisco vineyards nearby.
3. LunahuanáRiver rafting and small wineries in the Cañete valley, a couple of hours south of the city.
4. CaralThe oldest known city in the Americas, a quiet set of pyramids about three hours north.
5. Southern beachesSummer weekends pull Limeños to Punta Hermosa, San Bartolo, and the Asia boulevard down the coast.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Tostaduría BisettiA pioneering Barranco roaster and café inside a handsome old house.
2. Arábica Espresso BarA neat little specialty coffee spot in Barranco.
3. Origen Tostadores de CaféSingle-origin Peruvian coffee brewed carefully in Miraflores.
4. Puku PukuA local specialty coffee chain with reliable brews across several districts.
5. La Bodega VerdeA leafy garden café tucked into Barranco, good for a slow morning.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. CentralVirgilio Martínez's tasting menu built around Peruvian ecosystems, long ranked among the world's best.
2. MaidoMitsuharu Tsumura's Nikkei kitchen blending Japanese technique with Peruvian ingredients.
3. Astrid y GastónGastón Acurio's flagship in a Casa Moreyra mansion, a landmark of modern Peruvian cooking.
4. La MarA buzzing daytime cevichería that helped put Peruvian seafood on the map.
5. IsolinaA Barranco taberna serving hearty, generous plates of old-school criollo home cooking.
6. RafaelRafael Osterling's polished Miraflores dining room mixing Peruvian and Mediterranean flavours.
7. OssoRenzo Garibaldi's butcher shop and restaurant for serious meat lovers.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. El Pan de la CholaA much-loved Miraflores bakery with sourdough, strong coffee, and generous breakfast plates.
2. La Lucha SangucheríaPeruvian sandwiches and fresh juices right by Parque Kennedy.
3. ManoloA classic Miraflores spot for churros filled with dulce de leche and thick hot chocolate.
4. Café San AntonioA long-running Miraflores pastelería good for morning coffee and pastries.
5. La Bodega VerdeEggs, juices, and baked goods in a quiet Barranco garden setting.